Witness a grilled fillet of red mullet, generous in size, sublimely flavoured, with carrot and orange escabèche to add bite, and a sesame dressing to bind the whole dish together. Saddle of wild venison with beetroot purée and braised red cabbage is a tour de force. That note of powerful simplicity is sustained in a dessert such as dark chocolate and cherry tart, with silky dark chocolate sauce and fine vanilla ice cream. An excellent wine list only adds to the sense of occasion.